Asian-Californian Fusion at New, Inexpensive Unicorn

by Tyler Chan, The Daily Californian. 4/18/2002

   The Southside of Berkeley has a lot to offer in terms of quick, no frills meals. The three or four blocks down Telegraph from the edge of campus offers all the quick eateries a student could ask for. But in terms of more quiet sit-down restaurants, most locals can only name a few places that deliver. A new restaurant only a short walk down Telegraph might then just offer what people are looking for.

   Unicorn offers Pan-Asian cuisine in a dining experience that is more complete than the usual Berkeley meal. Diners will notice the mango orange colored walls as soon as they walk in. But combined with the white tablecloths on wooden tables, they make the dining room very clean and charming. The eating area is not very large, but the tables are situated to give an appreciated amount of privacy. Unicorn has only been open for five months, so the service is a little inexperienced, but still attentive enough to visit our table several times and make sure everything was good.

   The owner of Unicorn describes Pan-Asian cuisine as Southeast Asian food with a Californian twist. The Chicken with Lotus Rootlets salad ($5.50), for example, has a coleslaw consistency, but is made with ingredients normally seen in Thai food. The overall flavor is very appealing, and the vegetables are crisp and fresh, The prawn spring rolls are like those you can get from most Vietnamese restaurants, but the dipping sauce included has a spicier taste to it.

   The Malaysian curry ($6.75) is served in the typical fashion, a bowl of curry with rice on the side. The flavor of the curry however is more bold than other restaurants, making the dish much more enjoyable. The curry is just a bit spicy, but can be adjusted to fit your taste. Other entrees include vermicelli, clay pots, various rice platters, and seafood, and most of the entrees come with a cup of soup and a bowl of rice.

   Unicorn also offers a small menu of Southeast Asian drinks, including a full page of exotic teas, served by cup or by the pot. The dark mango tea was very strong at first, but became much better after being diluted with some hot water. The Vietnamese drip coffee is probably too potent for most people, but a variety of other drinks such as Thai iced tea are available. For dessert, the mango flan is a good choice, although it doesn't taste like mango.

   Unicorn is situated between Dwight and Blake, making it not too far of a walk for a student with an hour for lunch. Even so, most customers are local business people who come in because of word of mouth. Pricing is very inexpensive, an entire meal including two entrees, and an appetizer, two drinks, and dessert only cost $27.77 after tax. The environment is a great change of pace from usual, and not a bad place to take a date. For those looking for alternative sit-down restaurants in Berkeley, Unicorn is definitely a place to try.

Unicorn is at 2533 Telegraph Avenue.
For more information, call 510.841.8098.
Entrees range from $5.75 to $15.95.